Wood Tools
The Best Tools to Cut Curves in thickwood Stock
If plans for woodworking call for cutting curves through thick stock, typically the tool of choice is the band saw. Band saws are easily adjusted to work with all sizes of stock, and the blade is straight throughout the cut (a challenge when cutting through thick stock using other tools). There are a variety of tools you can use when you don't have the bandsaw, or you need to cut inside (cutting at the edges of the stock) instead of cutting from the outside. Each tool has its own pros and drawbacks.
Jigsaw
Jigsaws are handheld version that is suitable for DIYers and home woodworkers. It can also be used to cut curved interior cuts. Jigsaws can make tight turns and cut all kinds of thicknesses for stock, including up to five inches. For cutting inside, drill a starter hole using a 3/8 or 1/2-inch bit. To begin cutting, insert the jigsaw knife through the hole.
The disadvantage of cutting through thick stock using the help of a jigsaw is that larger stock needs a longer blade, and a longer blade will be more likely to bend when cutting which results in a cut that isn't as vertical or as straight as you'd prefer. You can minimize flexing by making use of a bigger blade however, larger blades aren't able to turn as tightly than smaller ones, so there's a risk of trade-off. In general that the blade should at least an inch larger than the thickness of the material to ensure that it is clear of the sawdust from the cutting.
Coping Saw
Coping saws are handsaws that can make extremely precise curves in thin stock like trim molding. They can cut outside (from the edge), on stock up to two or three inches thick. Coping saws allow you to manage the speed and give you precise control.
The disadvantages of copingsaws are threefold. They have small, fragile blades that are able to bend and break easily. You must be aware of your line and ensure an even blade throughout the day. Second, the blade length is short, which means a short cutting stroke and consequently lots of work. Third, the cutting depth is limited to the length of the saw's frame (or the throat's distance) and the frame is often stuck when cutting parallel to the stock's edge. This limitation somewhat by cutting relief cuts that remove the any waste material as the cut progresses.
Reciprocating Saw
Reciprocating saws are specifically designed for demolitionand not woodworking however, for cuts in heavy stock, like landscaping timbers or heavy Joists, they'll be able to get the job done. To avoid the jarring and bouncing effects which these powerful tools are known for it is important to keep the blade at a constant speed and move the tool slowly. Be careful not to burn or overheat the wood using the blade. Use a wood blade with an elongated profile to permit sharper curves.
Router
A router makes very clean cuts and is able to handle materials of various thicknesses; how thick is determined by the length of the bit as well as your comfort zone. Long bits require more safety and care as they may bend and chatter when you press too far. It is best to make a rough cut with an jigsaw to get rid of the majority of the waste, then employ a router for the final 1/16 inch or more. It is difficult to hog huge amounts of material with a router. For the best cut, make a template that the router can use to follow to ensure a perfect cleaning.